Shergarh fort was built by General Hari Singh Nalwa in 1819 in Hazara (now in KPK) as a part of several defensive forts in the area to prevent the Durranis of Afghanistan from eyeing Kashmir - which had been annexed into Panjab the same year by Sher-E-Panjab Maharaja Ranjit Singh. It was built using mud and animal hair.
By the 1830s, the fort was captured by the Tanolis and has remained with them since then. In the 1860s, the fort was converted into the summer residence of the Tanolis aka Nawab of Amb. Much of the fresco work shown below dates from 1860s. Each photo has a detailed caption.
My Butalia ancestors and my host Jahandad Khan Tanoli's ancestors fought many battles with against each other in the early 1800s but today we are like brothers from another mother! I visited the fort recently for a family celebration. The Hazara hospitality is amazing.
The fort is awe inspiring. It catches your eye and your heart. It still comes in my dreams... and if you stay still for sometime, you may hear the horse hooves from centuries ago....
And in Shergarh, as in all across Hazara, they speak Hindko - a sweet dialect of Panjabi I love.
Before I left Shergarh, I paid my respects at the graves of Painda Khan (1805-1844) and Jahandad Khan (1820-1868) - who fought many battles against my ancestors in early 1800s - and whispered there that the enemity of our ancestors had now blossomed into friendship of this generation and future ones - eternal hope!
Written and Photography By Tarunjit S Butalia
1 Comments
Wonderful fort with beautiful murals and frescoes. Thanks for sharing.
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